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Set Motor mode didnt get ack for message

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Our 3d  printer stopped midway through a print giving the error message "set motor mode didn't get ack for message" as well as "preprint error: GetLastError command didn't get ack for message. Does anyone know a fix for this problem or what it means? the printer is an Objet30 3D printer.


Non-constant extrusion issues

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So I recently installed a new E3D v6 hotend on my Solidoodle 2 Pro, and along with it came a problem that I haven't seen anyone else have. When the extruder motor turns, it turns in steps. This has been normal behavior for my printer since I've gotten it, even though these steps seem a little large. This never used to be a problem until I installed the E3D, and now it is making lines bumpy. Whenever the motor makes a step, it pushes out more plastic, creating a wide part of a line. Here are 5 lines surrounded by a skirt that I just printed:
http://soliforum.com/i/?Uz1F6Vq.jpg
This doesn't only happen with lines. Here's the first print that I did after installing the E3D (a hollow cube):
http://soliforum.com/i/?MU2g9cZ.jpg http://soliforum.com/i/?MD9oNPR.jpg

After that, I tried increasing the speed from 40 m/s to 60 m/s, and printed the same model. This was the result:
http://soliforum.com/i/?9wAbQg1.jpg

I then brought the speed back down from 60 m/s to 45 m/s, and tried a different model (a solid cube with 20% infill)
http://soliforum.com/i/?iegbETD.jpg http://soliforum.com/i/?kEOYqpl.jpg

All in all, I'm stuck. Nobody seems to have a solution, or even has had this problem. Every time I search about it, the results are about clogged extruders or the sort. Any help or insight would be appreciated.
Here's some additional information:

  • I use Hatchbox 1.75mm ABS filament, and I've tried different colors.

  • I print at 240 C according to the E3D thermistor, and have a glass hairspray-coated heated bed at 100 C.

  • Here's the temperature curve during a print:
    http://soliforum.com/i/?yJBY7AW.png

  • I use lawsy's jigsaw replacement mk5 with feitcounter's mk5 E3D body and bradjshannon's mk5 better locking arm.

Also, I'd like to add that I have not calibrated the flow rate. I cannot get an accurate measurement of thickness with the bumpy nature of the lines. I have, however, adjusted the flow rate to see if it fixes the problem. It did not.

Solidoodle 4 Bed Leveling

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I'm working on leveling my Solidoodle 4 bed using a dial indicator and the back left corner is causing some issues.  I have the other three corners level but back left is off by about 0.15mm.  I realize this is a very small amount but is there a possible cause that anyone has encountered before?  Am I just being too obsessive?

Thermal runaway

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I've ran my heated bed for a while without issues. Now out of nowhere when it gets to over 65 while printing it will throw a error and pause. I tried lid tuning with no luck. I'm using a Xbox 360 a.c. adapter and this has been the setup for a while with no issues. I believe both the hotend and bed can get up to temp but as soon as it tries to print a error is thrown. The board I'm using is mks 1.3 I believe.

Solidoodle 2 pro with e3d v6 head blockage

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Hello all,
I'm having a bit of issue with this head, I get a print or two out if I clean with acetone but if I let it cool down then I get a blockage. I am printing with ABS and have changed the retraction to 0.5 mm and I am printing at 225 deg C. I have attached a few pictures so you can see what the setup is and how deep the blockage goes.

Cheers
Rob

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/723/33302527015_548fd4c7be_o_d.jpg

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/745/32487925463_1730d59a6d_o_d.jpg

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3796/32459627574_854c5bf431_o_d.jpg

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2927/33174467981_75162186be_o_d.jpg

Bad hotend connection - Temperature dropping mid-print

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I have the Solidoodle 2 with a heated bed, and lately, I have been having problems with the hotend. The extruder temperature will suddenly drop during a print, and if I don't notice it quickly enough, it will ruin the print! This can happen at random times during a print, or sometimes not at all. If I notice it quickly enough, I can tighten the connections for the hotend, and the temperature will begin to climb again. I have tried tightly wrapping the connection in electrical tape, and that seems to have helped, but it hasn't completely fixed the issue. Does anyone know of a good permanent solution for this problem? Thanks for any and all help!

Random blobs

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I pretty much have my sd2 running good. One thing I can't seem to figure out are these random blobs. I thought maybe retraction but its running in single vase mode. The hot end is a e3dv5 .4 nozzle
Petg black at 239 temp 60 bed

The printer is not running fast at about 45 print speed
And 38 perimeter using cura.

Burning Smell

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Hi All,

I've got a Solidoodle 3, it's still working fine but I've started to notice a burning smell. It's not the smell of hot ABS and it seems to be coming more from the back of the unit. No burnt spots or melted parts on the board. Only upgrade is an E3D hotend, probably 2+ years ago.

Just curious if anyone had any insight?


Bed Heat Problem

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Once again, haven't turned the machine on in a couple of weeks.  The bed heater was replaced not too long ago with one from Azerate.  Doesn't have too many hours on it.  Might not be the bed.... Hopefully the graph will show the problem.

http://soliforum.com/i/?nuAGNHx.jpg

The second power break was me, the first... I have no idea.
I did a quick check of the wires - seemed OK

Suggestions??

Thanx
Ski

Solidoodle 3 Motherboard Replacement?

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So, out of the blue, my solidoodle 3, which has function without flaw for the past 4 years, is no longer recognized by my computer. I tried various computers and usb cables with no luck. I suspect the usb port on the Motherboard is fried. Anyone have a link to a replacement mobo? I've scoured online for awhile, haven't been able to find one.

(S4) Support material help (pics)

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Greetings,
I need some help with support materials on my S4. I recently upgraded to the E3D Lite6 and havent had much luck with my support materials, and been cuting pieces like cray to avoid using support materials. But sometimes, I just have to and doesnt turn out too well.
I do have a extrusion calibrated and bed leveled best I can. But this is what I get

http://i.imgur.com/6sXWJR4.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/qV9HHwQ.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/SETXb6g.jpg

Here are my settings

http://i.imgur.com/swFKapE.jpg

Any help would be much appriciated

Solidoodle 4 freezes/becomes unresponsive

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No idea what is happening (Complete noob), Ive installed Soliprint and Repetier on two different laptops. Sometimes the printer works, Ive managed to print a few things. But most of the time it freezes up either while heating up or while printing. I unplug and re plug in the usb cable and restart which ever program Im using and the printer will work again for a bit.

Has anyone successfully installed a non-drilled heat bed...

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on a SD2?  My heat bed is intermittent, and I want to replace/repair it.  I can buy a 6 x 6 heat element from numerous places for ~20.00 and up, but none have the mounting holes.  Unless someone has a better solution, I am going to try to solder/weld tabs on each corner of a couple of pieces of 6" x 6" x ~5mm aluminum (the bottom piece having the mounting holes) so I can bolt them together.  I will machine room for the wire connections. 
I can't figure out any other way. 

Suggestions greatly appreciated....

Thanx
Ski

Switching from MKS board to RAMPS 1.4

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Hello, I switched my MKS board after it burnt tongue and now I am setting up marlin with my RAMPS 1.4+Arduino Mega Board.
So I have some problems:

    my printer is a sunhokey prusa i3 bought from https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2015-Up … 0.0.o69Sts, the first problem I have is the full lcd (with controller) shows blinking question marks on the XYZ axes meaning the endstops aren't hitting and when I send the M119 command I get all endstops as open. I noticed actually that now the X and Y axes are at their home but the Z axis is not at home, the LCD shows "Endstops Z", maybe it is the opposite way for me?

      I think what causes the following problems is the motors getting too much/too low current, the Polulu DRV8825 heatsink getting a bit hot but I don't know how to solve it.

        The x axis moves fine, however when I try to return it back it doesn't move(only a little bit, it seems like it is hard for the motor to move to the other way) and I actually get something like: "echo: endstops hit: x:9.83"

          The Z axis only goes up, but I don't get the message like I get for the X axis, it just doesn't go down.

            The Y axis is jumping and moving weird, if I move it +10 a couple of times, sometimes it will go to the right direction and sometimes it will go to the wrong direction, and the belt is jumping insanely.
            My connections are like http://www.makersking.com/eBay/Items/DB … 1920px.jpg, a pic is http://fastpic.ru/view/89/2017/0408/be9 … 5.jpg.html. I will add videos if needed. My configuration file is https://pastebin.com/0hHLpMcS, note that somehow my steps_per_unit values is very very low, but if I move it 100 steps, it actually moves about 96mm so I don't know why it is so low yet close to reality.
            I think that's all the issues I got and I gave all the information needed, I will add something if it will hit my mind, and please ask for more information if needed smile

            Extruder On/Off Heat Setting

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            I finally got this thing working again...   I used to be able to turn on both extruder & bed temps at the dame time and they both would heat to temp in ~3 min, not so with this new thing I got. The extruder still takes ~ 3min, the bed takes> 35 min, that's with a 350W SuperNight PS!  So, I now turn on the bed and go about my business and come back to print.  Most times, I forget to turn on the extruder, it's very annoying....  There was a setting to not allow the extruder to work unless the temp was up.  I can't remember where it's at... 

            Any help is greatly appreciated -
            Thanx
            Ski


            Solidoodle 3 Drive Pulleys Broken

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            My Soli 3 has broken the Y axis drive pulley. Where is the best place to get a replacement, and what exactly am I buying?

            Solidoodle Press motherboard replacement

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            Hello all

            Seems my solidoodle motherboard has gone caput. Either that or the PSU has died, however when measuring with multimeter it seems i'm getting the 24v DC that should be coming out of there.

            Is there any known plug and play replacements for this board?

            Kind regards,

            Seven

            Solidoodle Says Its Printing, but nothing moves except Filament

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            I have tried different softwares, and get the same result. It says its printing, but all it does is dump filament. Not sure whats wrong. Just started doing this. Was working fine a few hours ago.

            Solidoodle workbench board replacement with MKS GEN v1.3

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            After a few months of not printing, I tried firing up the old SD workbench to get back into it. Unfortunately, the board has gone to crap on the printer, so I bought an MKS GEN V1.3 to try and revive it. I'm running into problems getting the firmware loaded onto the board. Any links or suggestions to help a newbie get this board going? I've tried using the reprap site here: http://reprap.org/wiki/MKS_GEN with some instructions on this post: http://www.soliforum.com/topic/7373/sd4 … le-board/. Unfortunately, nothing seems to work.

            Solidoodle 3 SLOOOOOOOW

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            OK, I got the gear fixed, and got the software working. I am sure this thing isn't setup properly. I sent a print job to it that I have done on my cube 3 many times in under 3 hours, and the solidoodle said it would take 15.5  hours to complete. At the recommendation of the Print It guys I have been talking to on facebook here are the Slic3r settings from the soliprint software. There have been no mods added to this printer by me. As far as I know its a stock Solidoodle 3.

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